From around about 2002 onwards—the year Hollywood gifted us Blue Crush, never forget—we’ve been fairly convinced of the truth that lies within this equation: surfing + filmmaking =
.
The chemistry. It simply cannot be denied.
To pick the brains of someone who actually knows their way around both a) a surfboard and b) a camera, we caught up with award-winning Californian director, producer and surfer Taylor Steele—whose creative currency is at one with crystalline swells on our shores.
What project are you working on at the moment?
My passion project outside of commercial work commitments is definitely a film I’ve been working on with Monster Children writer Vaughan Dead. We’ve been tinkering with the script for a good five years but we’re finally about to green light production. It’s the story of a young man who accidentally electrocutes his balls. Think Billy Elliott meets Dead Man Walking but with Sean Penn strapped into the chair upside down.
What advice do you have for any grommets looking to follow in your footsteps?
I get asked this a lot and I think the best bit of advice I can give any kid who wants to get into filmmaking is bring something new to the table. Let yourself be influenced by as many filmmakers as you like, but make sure the end product is something distinctly your own.
What do you think of the idea that creative pursuits are not ‘real’ or ‘solid’ professions to go after?
I don’t know who said it but one of my favourite quotes is:
“Life is a waste of time and surfing is as good a way to waste it as anything else.”
Whether you’re taking a photo or doing a drawing or solving a math problem or building a house, using your imagination and coming up with new ideas is fun.
Your perspective on whether a creative pursuit is “real” or not is largely the product of your environment and what sort of support you do or don’t get. For example if your Dad is in the military and you quit school to start a band he’ll probably think you’re the biggest idiot in the world. Even if that band goes on to become The Doors and you die at 36 and get buried in the same cemetery as Édith Piaf and Oliver Wilde, your Dad might still think you kooked it. So, you have to trust your instincts, because ultimately you’ll be better off choosing the road that will make you happy.
At what point did you realise what you were doing was a viable career path?
Well, I guess so long as the next project is able to get moving you feel like what you’re doing is viable. Regardless of whatever success you experience in your life, you have to keep evolving; stay curious and reignite your passion regularly, otherwise the viability of anything you do runs down the drain pretty quickly.
How has the surfing scene changed since you were starting out?
There have been so many changes, from the performance side of things right through to how we even watch surfing now. A guy does a trick in Maui and within minutes it’s all over the world. When I started making movies there was a lot of division – kind of factional wars between the older crew who felt threatened by the younger guys. That’s pretty much gone now. Barring a few local strongholds people are free to ride whatever they want, wherever they want, however they want. It’s nice. The crowds kinda suck though.
What’s it like to watch talented mates get famous alongside you?
Donavon Frankenreiter deserves all the praise in the world. We all knew he was going to make it big one day. Aside from him I don’t think I have any famous friends.
What aspects of your personality do you most attribute to your success?
I’m calm in a crisis. And I turn to the drink quickly if anything gets beyond that.
If you had to choose a top few, what locations do you love to shoot at the most?
New Zealand. New York. New Brighton.
If you had to generalise, how would the personality of surfers differ from that of other elite sportspeople?
Well, I don’t know a lot of athletes outside of surfing, but it seems to me the mindset of the best surfers in the world wouldn’t be too different at all. These days they commit to the same training regimes, diets and sports science and have the same competitive fire. Maybe the surfers say cowabunga more than the other guys or something.
What are some of the most exciting things happening in surfing right now?
The most exciting thing for me is seeing my girls totally getting into it. I bought my eldest daughter Sally Fitzgibbon’s book ‘Live Like Sally‘ and it’s her bible. I love watching her froth out.
What do you think the sport will look like in 10 years?
It’ll probably look the same but with more people and wave pools.
Looking back on your career, what are your reflections/thoughts on being named one of the most influential people in surfing?
It’s nice but I’m not huge on looking back. I get much more excited about what’s to come. Sounds kinda cheesy but that’s honestly what keeps me motivated and moving forward.
What happens when all the best waves have been found?
We kick the dog out of the Russian rocket and jump in.
Surfing World’s first short surf film competition Reelers is now on and has $20,000 up for grabs over three categories. Entries are open from now until September 1st and they’re looking for a three minute surf movie, to be judged by the most legendary judging panel ever assembled. Head HERE for more info.
