SURF’S UP: NSW Beaches Are Gonna Get Battered By Gnarly Waves All This Week

Realistically, this will only be good news to those of you who have a small pile of rocks where your brain should otherwise be.
The Bureau of Meteorology has issued warnings for virtually the entire NSW coastline, with the low pressure system that drenched Sydney over the weekend now lingering off the coast and causing big, hazardous swells.
Waves of up to 3 metres are forecast to bash the state from the North Coast down to the South Coast all throughout today, and rough sea conditions are expected to hang around until at least Thursday.
The low-pressure system is moving at a crawl after crossing over the NSW mainland over the weekend, so despite fine weather in Sydney today, the seas will still be churning.
The BoM warns that conditions are hazardous for activities such as rock fishing, swimming, and surfing. Cop this swell forecast chart, which shows wave height tracking in well above 3m for most of the week:

The low pressure system is track to the north-east, and synoptic charts show just how big the system is (spoiler: pretty sodding big).

Weatherzone senior meteorologist Jacob Cronje explained how this particular system is angrying up the surf like the blood of a pensioner dizzy on sarsaparilla:

“It’s now more defined and well developed, even though it’s offshore, so its effects are lingering.”


“There is a very strong pressure gradient between the system and the coast, and there is also a good south-easterly circulation that’s stretching over a very large area of ocean.”


“When you have sustained south-easterly winds over a very large area of ocean making its way towards the coast, you usually have increased wave activity.”

As far as the on-land weather goes, Sydney’s looking at a fairly steady week of temperatures in the mid-20s, dotted by persistent intermittent showers that’ll hang around until at least the weekend.
So if you’re headed to the coast line this week, watch your feet and stay out of trouble, pals.
Or alternatively, find a prime spot near the danger zone and command the waves like you’re GD Poseidon.

Either way, look out for yrselves.


Photo: The Perfect Storm.

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