Former Dior creative director John Galliano – he of anti-semitic and racist tirades caught on tape four years prior – this morning made what’s being touted as a triumphant return to fashion and form alike having showed his debut collection for Maison [Martin] Margiela’s Artisinal line – an equal parts sexy, spellbinding and grotesque haute couture offering unveiled on #MargielaMonday, the final day of London’s autumn/winter menswear showcase.
Vertically coiffed Vogue editor-at-large Suzy Menkes has since written at length about the collection’s raw animalism and “sweet elegance“; likewise The Independent’s resident Galliano scholar, Alexander Fury, who – along with the BoF’s Colin McDowell and style.com’s Tim Blanks – praised Galliano’s genius and the harmonious union of house and newly-incumbent creative director.
Those are just four critics of the select audience of 100 invited to view the collection in an clinical London office block, where heavenly red velvet cheongsam gowns faced paired off with mannish tailoring, before finding their antithesis in chiffon gowns deconstructed to the limit of that definition, denim hot pants and the ocean’s flotsam repurposed into the house’s signature tribal masks embedded into coats and dresses. Fashion tho.
You can view select highlights from the collection above, or witness the fury it all its fully-fledged glory below at showstudio.
Photos via showstudio