When it comes to brow filling, it’s not really about “less is more”. But then it’s also not good to go OTT, either. Sometimes it’s like you can’t win – you’re either stuck with sparse eyebrows or ones that dominate your whole face.

I’ve been brow filling for years now, and I still haven’t entirely nailed it. So I asked Hannah Mutze, National Brow Artist for Benefit Cosmetics Australia for her top tips. She’s been waxing my eyebrows for years now and always seems to do JUST enough to make them full but not overdone – she knows her shit.

1. Use More Than One Product

When it comes to brow filling that looks really natural, using more than one product is needed. You want something to mimic hairs and add density to the brow, and then another to hold hairs in the position you want them all day.

“I recommend a water-resistant brow pencil and a fibre gel,” says Hannah.

“Use the pencil to shape and fill the brows then layer on a fibre gel to make the hairs look thicker. It uses tiny microfibres to build natural looking thickness around the hairs making your brows look fuller.”

2. Work In Layers

Rather than colouring your whole brow in with a pencil, work in layers – draw some extra hairs, THEN fill in the other brow to match. Keep going and checking in the mirror so you don’t go overboard. If you fill one entire brow in then move on, you are more likely to go HAM and get them too bold for your liking.

You can also work in layers with your brow products, as Hannah explains.

“Layering creates really long wearing brows. Try layering a loose brow powder on top of a brow pencil. Benefits have a Brow Styler that offers both formulas in one product, I’ll start with a light layer of the wax pencil to trace the shape, then add a light layer of the loose filling powder, starting under the arch of the brow and blending towards the tail end. Buff any remaining product through the front of the brow. The result is waterproof brows that can last for up to 18 hours!”

3. Don’t Overdo The Front Of Your Brows

If you want a dramatic look, absolutely go for it – but if you’re trying to nail the natural/bushy vibe, you want to avoid adding too much density to the front end of your eyebrows. With brow filling, try to ease up on the front and focus more of filling the ends, which is where density is found in those lucky people who have naturally full eyebrows.

Generally, the front of the brow is lighter in density than the tail end, this should be the case when brow styling too. Fill the tail end of the brow first then apply sparingly through the fronts. Block filling cancels out the texture and dimension natural looking brows must have and instead creates a flat, one dimensional finish.  Try layering a brow fibre gel or brow highlight gel on top of your brows when finished to bring flat brows back to life.

4. Use A Brow MVP When In Doubt

If you’re a bit of a brow filling newbie, go with Hannah’s fave product for naturally-filled eyebrows.

“A fine tip brow pencil like Precisely My Brow Pencil. The fine tip is perfect for shaping and filling the brows using hair like strokes instead of heavy, unnatural lines.”

Stroke in the direction of hair growth, mimicking actual hairs as opposed to colouring or drawing heavy lines. You can’t fuck it up!

Image: Instagram / @benefitaustralia