Carvin’ Up Canada: Where To Stay, Ski And Skoll This Season

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Published

August 12, 2015

Produced in association with our mates at Skimax Holidays.

All you snow-loving readers of ours: we knew the day would come when you’d be running into our arms, tear-stained faces bewailing the end of the Australian and NZ ski seasons. That day is almost here and tbh, were not ~that~ keen on dealing with runny noses and emotions.

So, we’ve been plotting in the office all through July to deliver you one superb second winter. Yes, second winter. In CANADA.

Okay, cost is on you BUT we’ve carefully curated a guide to skiing / boarding at all the best resorts across the better half of North America. We have 3 words for you: powder (swoon) and exchange rate.

Old mate Canada has seriously delivered on both and with our guide linking up all the best slopes for the kind of winter you’re after, you can stop that crying and get planning.

ALBERTA

The Rockies, yo.

Banff National Park – Mt Norquay, Sunshine Village, Lake Louise

Paul Zizka – Mt Norquay

Closest civilisation: Banff township 10 mins from Norquay, 25 mins from Sunshine. Lake Louise township 5 mins from the Lake Louise slopes.

Best for: The quiet romantics and expert explorers

Why’s that?
All nestled in Banff National Park’s 1.6 million acres of unspoiled UNESCO-listed wilderness, these resorts are a stellar choices for a second winter.

Norquay is ~~smaller~~ more intimate than some of the other slopes, with about 190 acres of skiable terrain nicely spread across beginners, intermediate and advanced. Its unparalleled views across the national park make for a romantic setting when Lifts of Love – a kind of aerial speed dating – starts up on the auspicious 14/2 every year. The night skiing on offer is a tantilising thrill before heading back down the mountain for an après-ski beverage.

Sunshine, on the other hand, is more about venturing into untouched backcountry after a few test runs on the mountain’s broad choice of intermediate trails. With some of the best snow in Banff, and an average fall of around 9 metres, experts will appreciate extreme off-piste skiing at Delirium Drive and Wild West – avalanche gear a must though. To tone it down a notch, take the lift to Lookout Mountain and ski back down through two provinces in one run.

On a sparkling powder day Lake Louise practically flutters its eyelashes at you in all its snow-covered prettiness. In those lakeside mountains you’ll find what some have described as one of the most beautiful places in the world to ski or board, with 4,200 acres of skiable terrain and beginners runs available from every chairlift.

When the powder falls it can be just ~the best~, but it can get busy so if the snow is fresh get up there early. Snow falls are only about 3.6m on average each year, but the quality of the snow can be gloriously dry and fluffy and tbh, you’re more there for the eye-watering beauty of the place.

Source: Chris Moseley via Facebook

Feed me:

The Mad Trapper’s Saloon will refuel you with on-mountain food and drink at Sunshine, or try the Cliffhouse Bistro on Norquay for stunning views.

Back down in Banff, The Block Kitchen and Bar is worth checking out for its top-notch fusion tapas and Three Ravens for its fine dining – treat yo’ self. For more budget-friendly sustenance, Barpa Bill’s is a godsend with burgers and souvlaki, while Melissa’s Missteak will keep iron pumping through your veins with whopping steaks and $8 steak sandwiches. Head to Wild Bills for real Alberta – line dancing, pool, elk burgers, the works.

Around Lake Louise, stop off at the boutique, on-mountain restaurant Whitehorn Lodge Bistro for hearty Canadian fare. Back down in Lake Louise, the fine dining Post Hotel is an excellent place to hole up with some stellar food and wine, while all your heart’s cheesy desires will be satisfied with authentic fondue at the Walliser Stube in the Fairmont Chateau.

Rest my tired legs:

At the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs (the one that looks like a castle), or the Fox Hotel and Suites for a more mid-range option. The Sunshine Mountain Lodge is perfect if you can’t be bothered getting off the mountain after you’ve skied it, and has an excellent restaurant and bar to boot. Around Lake Louise, go for the Fairmont (they do get around don’t they?) Chateau Lake Louise or the delightful Deer Lodge.

Après-ski adventures:

Banff: In the Mad Trapper’s Saloon if you’re still on Sunshine after dark, or at the Banff Ave Brewing Company for Canadian craft beer and delicious nibbles to go with it. If you’ve still got some energy after a day in the snow, there’s a few clubs to pick from: HooDoo, Aurora and Dancing Sasquatch, to name a few.

Lake Louise: The on-mountain Powder Keg Lounge is the place to be if you’re after a few lively drinks among the ski crowds or the Deer Lodge’s Ice Lounge for some novelty drinks in the ice-carved bar. Otherwise settle into the Fairmont Chateau’s Lakeview Lounge for a few quietly delicious cocktails by the fire and soak up the exclusive view.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK – MARMOT BASIN

Source: Marmot Basin

Closest civilisation: Jasper
Best for: The snow-loving recluses
Why’s that?
Nestled off the beaten track in Jasper National Park, Marmot Basin is the kind of place where one could squirrel away for a few weeks and be supremely rewarded with 1,675 acres of varied terrain and scarcely a person (or LINE) in sight. Its reputation for wildlife > humanity and relative seclusion means you can be shredding through stashes of powder 5 days after the last snowfall. It has some of the best scenery in the country, and terrain is spread evenly across all levels of difficulty. Well worth checking out for some ~chill~ times away if you gave your all at Perisher or across the ditch.

Don’t bother with a car – keep it cosy by getting an overnight Snowtrain from Vancouver that will track you through spectacular wilderness right to the doorstep of the Jasper township.

Feed me:
Grab a sambo or a specialty roast chook from Patricia Street Deli, or some excellent Japanese at Oka Sushi. You can partake in that most Canadian of dishes, poutines (hot chips smothered in gravy and cheese curds) at Downstream Restaurant while SnowDome coffee will keep you caffeinated and warm with some decent brew.

Rest my tired legs:

At the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge for lakeside coziness or the Crimson Jasper for centrality. Sawridge Inn will keep us Aussie water babies happy with an indoor pool to soothe tired limbs, and spa services, while Lobstick Lodge will keep you real close to nature at the base of The Rockies (and still only 5 mins from town).

Après-ski adventures: Jasper does NATURE in spades, so if you have a few hours off the mountain to spare you should head straight to Athabasca Falls, which will be spectacularly frozen over. Take an ice walk on Maligne Canyon or a dogsledding tour through Canadian wilderness in search of moose, elk, wolves etc. The Jasper in January Festival has things on all day, erry day – from free brewery tours to open mic nights. On mountain fun runs from Music on the Mountain every weekend to scavenger hunts and slalom duels.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

REVELSTOKE

Source: Royce Silhis Photography via Facebook

Closest civilisation: Revelstoke
Best for: XXL everything.
Why’s that?

Revy does everything on setting massive. We’re talking huge terrain (3,121 acres), enormous swathes of off-piste territory (only 59 trails to cover all that terrain), the longest vertical in North America (1,713 metres) and a large chunk of mountain dedicated to intermediate and advanced skill levels (only 7% beginners). Oh, and massive snow – like, up to 9-14 metres around the resort and 12-18 metres in heli skiing areas. Yes, if you’re gonna cat ski or heli ski, this is the place. Guides can take you up to the pristine reaches of the mountain to carve down into waist-deep glades of sweet, sweet powder.

Feed me:

Refuel at the Village Idiot Bar and Grill for pub nosh or Woolsey Creek Cafe for heartwarming tapas. The Taco Club will keep the engine running with a cheap lunch of Mexican street food or the on-mountain Mackenzie Common Tavern is an easy stop if your need for food has peaked.

A photo posted by Waldo Grobbelaar (@wolfsekind) on Jul 4, 2015 at 7:37am PDT

Rest my tired legs:

On the comfy beds of Sutton Place Hotel, within collapsing distance of the base area, or Monashee Lodge.

Après-ski adventures:

Okay, so while the mountain is massive, options for après-ski aren’t as extensive. But it’s definitely worth revisiting the Village Idiot for some chilled drinks after a day on the slopes, or the River City Pub will happily supply beers and clubby vibes when their dance floor comes to life of an evening.

FERNIE

Closest civilisation: Fernie
Best for: Powder-fantatics
Why’s that?
Because it has some of the best powder falls in The Rockies, across 2,504 acres of terrain accessible to all levels. True powder lovers will make their way to off-piste areas where the best snow is stashed in steep meadows and alpine bowls. Enjoy the mid-week chill, when the slopes are less busy and powder stashes are aplenty, before the livelier crowds descend on the weekend for some lively nightlife and après. If you’re not too comfy with back country exploring, let someone do it for you: with renowned snowmobiling, dog sled rides and snow-shoeing tours in abundance.

Feed me:
With high quality morsels at the Lizard Creek Lodge or wallet-friendly fare at Gabriella’s Italian restaurant or Kelsey’s with pub food. Nevados does on point Mexican tapas for a kick of heat after your day in the snow.

Rest my tired legs:
At the Fernie Slopeside Lodge, Timberline Lodge or the Lizard Creek Lodge – all are wallet-friendly, on-mountain accomm with ski-in, ski-out capacities. Get cosy.

Après-ski adventures:

It’s always worth checking out the Griz Bar after a tired day on the mountain for a relaxed drink and live music on weekends. Down in Fernie, The Northern is on-point for scrumptious pub fare and vibin’ fun. Worthwhile chucking Fernie Brewing Company on your itinerary too.

WHISTLER

Source: Tourism Whistler / Mike Crane

Closest civilisation: Whistler
Best for: The indecisive all-rounders
Why’s that?
Because Whistler has EVERYTHING. Host venue to the 2010 Winter Olympics, it has a whopping 8,171 acres spread across TWO interconnecting mountains with all the things your snow-addled heart could desire. They actually have an atlas to mark their 200+ trails to explore, not to mention all those off-piste areas of beautiful Canadian snow. *eyes glisten* Runs stretch for 11km and the terrain is solidly in the intermediate skillset so you’ve got ~no worries~ giving this world-class mountain a crack.

The terrain is particularly on point, but when your legs get tired of that you can fulfil all those Cool Runnings dreams and have a go on the now unused bobsled/luge track.

Feed me:
At one of many, many options in Whistler village. Thank you major tourism centre. But to narrow it down a bit, Rim Rock Cafe is your go to for fine dining, while Red Door Bistro has fine fare at a mid-range price. If you’re craving meat pies (tho rlly?) Peaked Pies is your guy, otherwise Creekbread serves up wondrous versions of carbs and cheese, pizza – perfect post-ski food. Sushi Village has you sorted for excellent Japanese and its famous sake margaritas.

Rest my tired legs:
If you’re splurging / up for a treat yo’ self time, your xxy options are secured with ANOTHER CHATEAU from Fairmont or the Four Seasons Resort Whislter. For some midrange alternatives, try Crystal Lodge or Coast Blackcomb Suites.

Après-ski adventures:

So many. Which is why some genius kids have developed Bar Hop: a tour of Whistler’s best spots for a beverage and a boogie with some awesome guides for just $50 (with cheaper drinks and entry fees waived). When your jealousy of this best-job-in-the-world subsides, enjoy your new mates and de-stress with others doing the work for you. For a quieter, relaxing time, try Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub.

BIG WHITE

Source: Big White Ski Resort

Closest civilisation: Kelowna, Big White village
Best for: The easiest to access champagne powder
Why’s that?

Big White’s utterly convenient and large array of on-mountain accommodation means you can practically roll out of bed and be shredding up sparkling powder within minutes. The powder is some of the highest quality, living up to its champagne qualities of being super smooth, dry and light, stretching across a huge 2,765 acres worth of skiable terrain. The terrain is pretty squarely in the intermediate range, but also dips its toes into gnarly black runs and beginners slopes. It’s a loveable all rounder with some of the best snow in Canada.

Feed me:
At Globe Cafe and Tapas Bar, the standout option amongst a variety of dining choices (over 20 establishments in the village all up). The Blarney Stone Irish Tavern will keep you well oiled with stellar ribs and Guinness (bit of an odd combo, but undeniably delicious) while The Black Diamond is excellent for a casual feed. If you’re keen to splurge a bit and fancy a taste of the local Okanagan wines, settle in at 6 Degrees.

Rest my tired legs:
Just a stonesthrow from the slopes. Try the Inn at Big White or Crystal Inn for midrange comfort, or for something a bit more fancy, Sundance Resort or Stonebridge Lodge will deliver.

Après-ski adventures:
Have liquor poured down the barrel of a shotgun into a flaming, boozy coffee at the Gunbarrel Grill (also, excellent food) or cozy up in front of a roaring fire, martini / scotch in hand, at Sante Bar and Grill. Snowshoe Sam’s, however, is where the real party’s at: live music, sometimes a DJ, fantastic pub vibes. The newly opened Sessions bar likewise goes off.

A photo posted by Anne (@annecutajar) on Apr 2, 2015 at 6:34pm PDT

Love how we did all that work for you? Well, our mates at Skimax srsly know their stuff and also do ace work taking all the effort out of your holiday planning. They’ve got some awesome Canada packages worth taking a look at HERE.

Title image by Robin O’Neill, Whistler Blackcomb Resort

Images by Mike Powell, Alain Grosclaude, and George Rose, via Getty.