Super fine is actually an apt description of the AW 2011 lookbook from London’s leading rock and roll denim label Superfine. With one of our favourite models Irina Lazareanu along with the amazing Natasa Vojnovic and Frenchman Stéphane Olivier featuring in the campaign, photographer Jan Welters had a pretty easy job of making the clothes look good. The collection, called “Gypsy Punk”, has the skinny silhouette that Superfine helped to pioneer – and is the favoured pants option by Primal Scream frontman Bobby Gillespie and the entire Massive Attack crew, but this line also marks an expansion for the brand from concentrating solely on denim.
London-based Aussie expat and stylist Lucy Pinter established the label in 2003 and now runs and designs the brand herself. Pedestrian had a chat to Lucy about the new collection, London style and what’s coming around the corner for Superfine…
Pedestrian: This latest collection is not as focused on jeans and denim as your previous ones, is a broader line part of the evolution of the brand for you? Lucy: The line has evolved into more of a full ready to wear line – i think that has happened over the last few years. It is something that is evolving as i am probably best with denim ideas but the more i work with other fabrics and ideas the better i get.
You use unique construction techniques like mixing black and white dyes, cracked leather and painted fabrics in this collection, why have you decided to go all out with the creativity in this collection? It’s not really a new concept for me. For many years the creativity has been key.
Your designs have always been quite androgynous, is that a reflection of your own style and influences, more than anything? I think so, yes. Funny you mention it as the season I am just finishing is in fact an androgyny collection: “girls will be boys”.
A lot of designers have hopped on the “green fashion” bandwagon. Have you got any plans to inject some ethical green elements into the Superfine brand? We played around with the idea about 8 years ago. And again recently. But for denim, it’s very tricky. The fabrics don’t yet look great. In my opinion its still limiting in terms of look (for us anyway, as we do fairly complicated denim designs). Stella McCartney does a great job though so it is possible if its something you really concentrate on.
Natural fibres like wool and leather come up a lot in this collection, what process do you go through to source the best fibres? I am very lucky to have a great production manager in Italy. I brief her with what I want and she finds as many options as possible. She’s brilliant and totally gets me.
Jeans are the foundation of your brand and you’ve been designing and producing them for so long now, how do you keep the denim fresh season after season? I think they are fresh because we have new ideas every season. We keep the basics but there are always new fashion ideas. Not just washes and treatments but designs. Our details are also key. Not many denim lines care about the inside. I think pocket linings and zips are as key as washes.
Who laps up Superfine more? Guys or girls? Our girls sales are higher but the guys who wear it seem to love it. We have some good rock’n’roll boys that swear by our jeans. Bobby Gillespie, Massive Attack, Kasabian – I know The Stones have worn it too and you can’t get more rock’n’roll than that!
The fashion scene in London is absolutely insane, how much does it inform your designs? I lived there for 13 years. I think it’s been a huge influence.
You’ve collaborated with Alexander Wang and other popular streetwear designers, who is your dream collaboration and have you got anymore in the pipeline for the near future? My dream collaboration would be rick Owens. I have been so busy with Superfine for the last few years as it’s growing and my partner left. But i have started to think again about collaborations. So, watch this space…
For more head to Superfinelondon.com
All Images Provided by Superfine
