The notoriously stoic Anna Wintour led the standing ovation as Marc Jacobs emerged at Le Carre du Louvre to take his final bow as Creative Director of Louis Vuitton.
The show represented the swan song of his inspiring 16-year tenure for the luxury giant, a tenure that was referenced in elements of the magnificent set – like the wrought iron elevator from the Autumn/Winter 2011 show (from which a pantsless Kate Moss stepped out, toting a lit fag); the carousel from the emphatically pretty Spring/Summer 2012 show; and the water fountain from AW2010. All were rendered in black, a pre-emptive (and totally indulgent/LOL/FASHAN/this song) symbol of mourning for Jacobs’ remarkable transformation of an aging brand into a highly influential fashion force and innovator in cross-medium collaboration.
One such collaboration was Jacobs’ teaming with New York artist Stephen Sprouse, whose graffiti logo for Louis Vuitton provided one of the most ubiquitous (and counterfeited) ‘it’ bags of the past decade. Sprouse’s contribution was also present in the show on a second-skin bodysuit Edie Campbell wore to open the show.
Like the set, the entire collection was rendered in a sombre palette of black, navy, dark grey and indigo and combined the fashion house’s penchant for opulence with a strong street wear influence, as well as a touch of textbook Marc Jacobs Americana via a series of blue denim jeans.
Watch the full show below.