As we’ve come to expect from any spiel accompanying a Dion Lee lookbook, you can be sure the various write-ups – including this one – covering his Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection will include some iteration of the following words: architectural, signature use of print and drapery, tailoring, structured, sheer, wünderkind and maybe even quintessence of modern Australian design.

Lee continues to astonish with his Autumn/Winter offering for 2012, a far-reaching yet cohesive collection that combines the extremes of structured, architectural tailoring with Lee’s signature use of print and drapery on sheer shirting and dresses that sees the continuation of the designer’s status as a wünderkind capable of distilling the quintessence of modern Australian design. You were warned.

The collection juxtaposes hard-edged tailored garments in both double wool and leather (replete with cut outs du jour) against softer silhouettes in both draped dress, sheer shirt and slouched pant form. A similar binary emerges in the oppositional colour palette of red, black and blue contrasting with paler whites, yellows and greys. Architectural pleats give structure and volume to the form of two particularly striking skirts and dresses, which find a point of balance in the peaked shoulder and cinched waists of both the black and blue block-colour cocktail dresses respectively. There is, of course, the requistite trompe l’oeil illusory geometric print, evoking something akin to the Goyard signature chevron print, as well as a tonal, colour gradient effect in both black and yellow. The vanishing lapels that merge seamlessly with the bone white coat are especially mesmerising. Or that could just be another trick of the eye. You decide.

View Photos Via Harper’s Bazaar