Kisumé (pronounced kiss oo may) is the latest brainchild of wildly successful restaurateur Chris Lucas – the guy who has blessed Melburnians with Chin Chin, Baby, Kong and Hawker Hall. The venue’s name, translated, means “a pure obsession with beauty”.
It’s only a short stroll down from Chin Chin on Flinders Lane, but the three-storey Japanese extravaganza boasts a totally different vibe.
Walk through the understated entrance at No. 175 and you won’t be hit with neon lights and booming music. Instead, the decor is sleek, with muted grey booths, dim lighting and blond timber floors. It’s clean, refined and fresh, but never clinical.
There are subtle hints of fun throughout the whole venue – from the amusing but knowledgeable young waitstaff to the soy spray. Yep, they’ve got soy sauce in tiny spray bottles.
Kisumé’s head chef, Master Chef K.S. Moon, is the real deal. The journey to become a head sushi chef is a long and winding one that can take a decade, and Moon has lived it, having trained and worked around the globe.
Raised and born in Korea, Moon spent his early career travelling back and forth between Seoul and Tokyo.
For years, he shadowed his itamae (his master, or teacher). He’d be at Toyko’s sprawling Tskukiji market by 3am sharp every day, collecting the day’s produce. He’d spend his nights observing his itamae in action. If he wanted to practice his technique, he’d have to do so at home. This steady grind was gruelling, but designed to weed out the weak from the worthy.
He used his exacting technique and rigorous training to earn an elusive blowfish certification. He’s worked in and around Michelin-starred kitchens, and in multiple cities. First Seoul, then Dubai and Singapore. And now? ‘Straya, mate.
While Moon means business and his technique is spellbinding, he’s not didactic or removed from his guests. He’s cheeky and up for some lighthearted banter. PEDESTRIAN.TV were treated to a one-on-one experience with the master and from that, we present to you: how to eat sushi like you were put on this earth to do just that.
Don’t be afraid to use your hands
When you’re dining in any restaurant that isn’t Maccas, using your hands to grab your grub feels a bit wrong.
But in news that will be music to the ears of everyone who doesn’t quite have a handle on using chopsticks, Chef Moon reckons you can totally get away with grabbing nigiri with your sweaty little paws.
This way, you’ll notice the temperature of the piece. Since it’s made by the chef’s hands, it’s the same temperature as his heart – meaning you feel his heart in yours. Now that is far more poetic than pinching a piece with wooden sticks.
But do use your chopsticks for other things
It’s not uncommon to see someone eat sushi with chopsticks, then use their fingers to add some ginger or a dab of wasabi.
Do a switcheroo.
Use your chopsticks to place a little pearl of wasabi atop your sushi. Pick them up again when you want to cleanse your palate with some fresh ginger.
Don’t be mixing your wasabi into your soy
Japanese cuisine is all about balance. If the Masterchef judges were to try and explain this, they’d say that each ingredient is, in itself, a hero ingredient.
Throwing wasabi into your soy sauce and giving it a whirl isn’t exactly delicate. Instead, place the wasabi onto the fish and then dip it into your soy sauce. It’ll look nicer that way, too.
Eat each piece in one bite
If you had, one shot, and one opportunity, to eat everything in one whole bite, would you capture it, or just let it slip?
We’re not talking Mum’s spaghetti, so yes. Sushi pieces are designed to be taken whole. Split rice isn’t pretty, nor is a sorry piece of fish hanging out the side of your mouth. Kisumé encourage their guests to eat sushi in one “unapologetic bite”.
Flip it, flip it good
Eat your nigiri fish-down. That way, the fish is the first thing that hits your tongue and that way you can experience its flavour to the fullest. Again, this is where using your hands comes in handy; you need a fair bit of chopstick dexterity to get an upside-down piece of nigiri in your gob.
But we need to talk about the rice, too. A huge part of a sushi master’s training is learning how to perfect rice. Every itamae creates his own secret recipe of rice, salt and rice vinegar. It’s best not to go toying with that by drowning it in a sea of soy.
don’t be this guy
Most importantly, enjoy
Sure, if you’re on a junior budget, spending a night at Kisumé is a real treat and probably more of an occasional thing.
So sit back. Relax. Sip some saké. It’s all good, baby baby.
Kisumé’s open from 11am till late, seven days a week, at 175 Flinders Lane, Melbourne. You can book at chef’s table seat and experience the full Chef Moon experience for $175.
