Pedestrian Co-Founder guide to Amalfi Coast and Capri
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The Amalfi Coastline is a must. We stayed in Sant'agnello (10 minute walk from Sorrento) for two nights, Praiano for one night, and travelled by ferry (from Sorrento) to nearby Capri for one night.
We found the best way to get to the Amalfi Coast was to fly to Naples and hop on a coach (only 10 Euro each) to Sorrento (approx 1.5 hours away). Here's what I recommend.
SORRENTO / SANT'AGNELLO
STAY - TOP
Grand Hotel Cocumella is breathtaking. It was originally built in the 16th Century as a Jesuit monastery, and since 1882 has been run as a family hotel. Expect lavish gardens...
Private beach (accessed via ancient underground cobbled walkway)...
Here's what you'll find at the bottom!
Hotel Cocumella has a long history of hosting artists, writers and other creative types like Goethe, Freud and the Duke of Wellington. We met a bunch of young artists who were part of the annual Grand Cocumella arts exchange program.
Each year one artwork is chosen to hang on the hotel walls, which was a lovely touch.
The rooms are charming and comfortable.
If you have a late night and miss breakfast like we did, Giuseppe will organise for it to be delivered to your room!
Coku Restaurant at Grand Hotel Cocumella - If you see Stephen (the hotel's General Manager) pictured below, tell him Oscar says hi! Thanks to him we experienced a wide selection of this Japanese-Italian fusion menu. It was incredible.
Ristorante Tasso Pizzeria is a Sorrento local which was recommended by many. And now by us. Super cheap, great food and service. Go there.
One of the absolute hightlights of the trip for me was scooting the Amalfi coastline. I was quite surprised that you can drive from Sorrento, passing Positano to Praiano in less than an hour. Below is a video Hawky filmed passing Positano. You're going to want to turn the sound off (sorry... the wind). It's worth noting that Italian drivers are freaking nuts, so be careful.
We went exploring and stopped off in Positano to see what all the fuss was about. The houses and view are pretty... However I was really underwhelmed with the beach, which was tourist central.
The best thing about Positano for us was the fresh lemon granitas. It had tiny chunks of lemon rind throughout.
The next town along is Praiano. Its only about 2km drive around this stunning coastline.
STAY - TOP
Casa Angelina is white, new, more beautiful than you could ever imagine. The pictures below actually don't even do this place justice. Save your pennies and treat yourself to an experience you will talk about for years to come. It's now my "happy place" and goes firmly down as the best hotel I have ever stayed in. The service is exceptional.
The hotel is perched on a cliff and looks out to the island of Capri. Waking up to this magical view will make leaving extremely hard.
You'll even feel inspired to work off the many bread baskets you've consumed so far in Italy.
Directly below Casa Angelina (intense stair walk) you'll find La Gavitella Beach. This is FAR better than the main beach at Positano.
The below video will give you a feel for the atmosphere...
The Italians are pioneering beachside relaxation. Food and wine delivered to your sunbed would go down a treat in Australia.
La Brace Pizzeria - Below is the best meal I have ever had in my life. Order the caprese salad, seafood spaghetti and fresh grilled fish. Wash it down with the house red.
Bar Del Sole Just down the road from La Brace restaurant, this place looks a little dodgy but has amazing (and super cheap, one Euro for two flavours) gelato.
We didn't know what to expect from Capri. All I had been told was it's ridiculously expensive... So was a little on edge when we got off the ferry. The first challenge you face is to get up the hill. Take the Funicular Railway. The view at the top was pretty special:
We stayed at Hotel Gatto Bianco which was a perfect location to experience ritzy Capri.
Dickheads in Capri.
Finding a sugar daddy is your best bet for shopping in Capri!
Rent a boat (we didn't need a boat licence) and take a magical lap of Capri Island. This is THE way to see Capri. Swim the Blue Grotto after 5pm when the tours have finished for the day!
Ristorante Pizzeria Verginiello - Great traditional trattoria in an open air setting. Serves delicious local Italian food for fantastic prices. The atmosphere is electric and it's filled with locals.