The Epicurean Guide To Asia’s Best Eats: Part Four – Bangkok

Bangkok is one of my favourite Asia cities in which to spend a long weekend. I love the cool lo-fi energy, the never-ending blocks of low-rise buildings and the happy, punk-y dispositions of the Thai youth, which is all smiles and pure rock and roll. When I travel, I look to be stimulated on a number of levels: I want aesthetic inspiration, to connect with the city’s inhabitants, to further my knowledge of the region’s history and, most importantly, to familiarise myself with the gastronomic diversity of the local dining scene. 

THIP SAMAI PAD THAI

My favourite aspect of this lo-fi pit stop is the artisanal attention they apply to the preparation of each element of this traditional dish. Using Chanthaburi noodles which hail from the East Thai province of the same name, this core ingredient is made from sun-dried milled rice flour. Unlike their Vietnamese vermicelli cousin, these noodles are thin and dense with an al dente texture, not unlike fettuccine pasta. Cooked in large dishes over charcoal and flames, each batch serves 20-30 hungry devotees, either there to sit and eat or take away by the bag full. 

CHATUCHAL MARKET STREET SNACK
Moving on from the glories of suburban authenticity, we find ourselves at the tourist mecca known as The Chatuchak Weekend Market. This is Thailand’s largest bazaar, an expansive network of alleyways full to the brim with the quirky, weird, cheap and beautiful. Whether you’re after rare rock and roll t-shirts, whimsical lanterns, costume jewellery or Thai textile, Chatuchak needs to be ticked off your BKK checklist. 

Address: Chatuchak Market, Area 22, Soi 4

THOMPSON RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

Moving out of the market place and into a bygone era, we found ourselves at Jim Thompson’s house. Thompson, an American expat, originally came to be in Bangkok due to his work as an operative in the USA’s Office of Strategic Services. The son of American fabric manufacturers, Thompson ended up in Sri Lanka working with the Seri-Thai Movement, a group focused on liberating Thailand from Japanese occupation. He arrived in Old Siam as Thailand claimed victory, falling hard for the city and eventually adopting it as his full-time home. 

Adjacent to the museum is the super chic eatery, Thompson’s Bar and Restaurant and the point of my story. This watering hole is a favourite for creatives and socialites, a quiet corner of old-world elegance and my favourite lunch spot in the city. The menu, whilst being skewed towards the expat palette (less chilli), features the usual suspects of Thai cuisine: luscious green curries, perfectly prepared Pad See Ew and their signature dish, Seau Rong Hai – (‘as the tiger weeps’). 

Address: Opposite The National Stadium 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 10330 

Post-lunch with Jim Thompson, it’s dinnertime. My favourite destination on a balmy BKK night is the legendary Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the original building was opened 1887 as Siam’s first luxury hotel. This regal venue is the epitome of colonial charm. The jewel in this hotel’s crown is Sala Rim Naam. It sits on an island in the middle of the river, accessed by a beautiful teak boat that floats alongside the hotel’s river-facing promenade.

Under the leadership of Chef Vichit, Sala Rim Naam is considered among the top destinations to experience high end Thai cuisine in the city. Known for his impeccable attention to detail, Vichit ensures produce quality by sourcing rice from his own fields and working directly with farmers and vendors of the Tor Kor Market. Vichit takes great pride in introducing younger generations to historical royal cuisine; his menu includes traditional Thai favorites such as Naam Prig Makham (‘Dip with Tamarind and Minced Chicken’), Yaam Nuea Poo Gub Mamuang (‘Spiced Green Mango Salad with Crab Meat’), Gai Hor Bai Toey (‘Deep Fried Honeyed Chicken in Pandanus Leaf’), and Poo Phad Naam Prig Pow (‘Stir Fried Sea Crab with Chilli Jam and Basil Leaves’).