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Plagiarism is a mighty damning accusation. And in the world of fashion, a notoriously hard one to pin down. The very issue discussed by Johanna Blakley, Deputy Director of Californian think tank the Norman Lear Center, who, in a speech conducted at TEDxUSC earlier this year, illuminated the fashion industry's relative flippancy (compared to their creative industry kin in music and film) toward intellectual property, creative commons and the distinction between remixing and flat-out copying (watch below).

That's not to say that fashion's flimsy copyright laws has in any way curtailed media scrutiny (see Fasionista's eagle-eyed knock-off column Adventures in Copyright or the threat of legal action against the forever offending brands (Forever 21, Steve Madden, et al.) but unlike a stolen riff or lifted paragraph, the fingerprints of fashion plagiarism are far more difficult to find. To my knowledge there's no such thing as a Sartorial CSI Death Squad.

Cut to this afternoon when I received an email titled "The most sincere form of flattery?" from Australian swimwear brand White Sands Swimwear. Its contents? Eight side-by-side images of White Sands' own wares and those contained within Seafolly's September look book. Every Seafolly garment was at-first-glance similar to their White Sands kin. The images were proceeded with the caveat "Is it just us, or has Seafolly taken a little to much 'inspiration' from White Sands?".

Now no one likes a self-serving tattle tale but there are some similar-ish details, cuts and fabrics in both ranges and because I'm not a swimwear expert I'm going to throw it over to you to decide. Some things to keep in mind: How many ways can you cut a swimsuit? I mean, it's not like we're talking about plagiarized haute couture. Also, who incurs more bad will? Seafolly who may or may not have plagiarized White Sands' designs? Or White Sands, whose meant-to-be incendiary email just might be the worst way to succeed in Australian fashion's tiny talent pool. Swimwear politics, who knew?

[Updated 7.17pm 2nd September] Seafolly has released a statement in regards to the allegations made against them by White Sands. It states that designs included in the images below were released into the marketplace before the relevant White Sands products. It further adds that other designs included in the allegations were "substantially progressed in development" prior to White Sands releasing its relevant garments. The full release is published under the images at the centre of the controversy below.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Picture 4

Picture 5

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Picture 8

The full statement from Seafolly can be found below:

Seafolly vows to take legal action over claims of copying made by White Sands Swimwear

Seafolly is one of Australia’s best known fashionable swimwear brands. Its swimwear styles are sold throughout Australia and in many countries throughout the world. Seafolly is known for its innovative and stylish swimwear styles. Seafolly has its own dedicated graphic design team that are responsible for designing new and original fabric prints and designs for Seafolly’s swimwear range. These original and distinctive fabric and garment designs are very important to Seafolly maintaining its reputation as one of Australia’s leading swimwear brands.

Earlier today Seafolly became aware that Leah Madden of White Sands Swimwear has made allegations on her facebook page that Seafolly has copied 7 of her swimwear designs. Ms Madden has posted on her facebook page reproductions of photographs from Seafolly's catalogue showing the Seafolly garments which she claims are copies of swimwear garments designed by White Sands Swimwear. Seafolly has also become aware that Ms Madden has sent emails to media outlets attaching Seafolly's photographs together with photographs of the White Sands Swimwear garments making these allegations of copying.

Seafolly denies these claims and says that they are completely false and without foundation and says the claims have been made maliciously to injure Seafolly. Seafolly will be taking immediate action to cause Ms Madden to withdraw these allegations. Seafolly notes that many of the designs which Ms Madden claims Seafolly has copied were released into the marketplace by Seafolly before White Sands Swimwear released its relevant swimwear garment. Seafolly also says that the other designs which Seafolly is alleged to have copied were substantially progressed in development prior to White Sands Swimwear releasing it relevant swimwear garments into the marketplace.

Seafolly has demanded that Ms Madden remove the photographs of the Seafolly garments from her facebook page and withdraw the allegations. Unless the allegations are withdrawn and a full and complete apology are made Seafolly has advised that it will issue proceedings against Ms Madden on the basis that the statements which she has made are false and misleading and made with the malicious intent in order to damage Seafolly's business.

Anthony Halas, Chief Executive Officer of Seafolly, said "Seafolly is shocked by the claims made by Leah Madden on her website. Seafolly is a well known international swimwear company that prides itself on its original swimwear designs. Seafolly employs a large design team to create its original and innovative swimwear and it would never copy a swimwear design of any competitor in the marketplace. Seafolly takes vigorous action against people who copy its designs and it has issued numerous infringement actions against copyists in Australia and internationally. Seafolly is committed to taking action against Ms Madden to set the record straight and to ensure that Seafolly's reputation as an innovative designer is maintained".

Tony Watson, a Partner of Middletons who has acted for Seafolly in many of its infringement cases which it has brought against traders who have copied Seafolly's designs, said that "Seafolly takes the copying of its original fabric designs and garments seriously and it currently has proceedings on foot in France and Canada against copyists. Through bringing these proceedings Seafolly has shown that it stands by its original and innovative designs. Mr Watson also said that “Seafolly will issue court proceedings if it has to in order to clear its name of these allegations of copying."

 
 
Posted on September 2, 2010 at 4:08pm by Ash.
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Comments.

bells - Sep 02, 2010 at 06:59pm
ummm ok. they all look like generic and very standard cuts that you see every summer. nothing looks copied because it's all just the same as everything else anyway 
CHO - Sep 02, 2010 at 07:00pm
Hmmm, just awful, just awful. Any more evidence? 
80 - Sep 02, 2010 at 07:00pm
although the first image is pretty similar, boo hoo hoo white sands. you own ruffles, floral and tie-up swimwear bottoms? 
bored - Sep 02, 2010 at 07:01pm
Dear White Sands,
I think you should have written the angry email and then slept on it before you hit send. This is weak...and...I mean WEAK. I think I can hear Seafolly defamation lawyers coming over the hill...Good luck. 
Kate - Sep 02, 2010 at 08:19pm
Really? I reckon they look like TOTAL rip offs! And Bells, there are lots of different styles of swim suits. Also, the fact that the collection mirrors white sands, rather than just one or two suits that are similar is pretty fishy if you ask me! 
Joey - Sep 02, 2010 at 08:32pm
Whether this claim turns out to be true or not, to publish such a serious allegation in a public forum like Facebook is astounding - talk about throwing all your years of work and your reputation down the drain and in front of the eyes of the public/fashion industry. Poor form I say. I can't see a positive way out of this. 
Charles - Sep 03, 2010 at 10:47am
@Joey Do you understand the difference between "a serious allegation" and a simple question, Joey? If you paid more attention, you'd see it's the author of this blog that's made the "serious allegation", not the people from White Sands. 
kimberley - Sep 02, 2010 at 08:35pm
I think seafolly have totally copied the white sands range obvioulsy their designer ran out of ideas for this season. SEAFOLLY= Single White Female Syndrome  
Michaela - Sep 02, 2010 at 09:07pm
YOUR COMMENT*
I think this screams rip off, you would expect that in one designers entire collection their may be some similarities however this many in the one season really is a joke. Obviously ruffles are everywhere and whitesands doesn't own ruffles however, i run a retail store with many ruffled dresses which our designers have managed to make sure they don't look like any other dresses with ruffles from other stores and designers. Whitesands has every right to make this statement, their work has been copied and someone is going to take the credit and make money for their creations. Quiet embarrasing on Seafollys behalf i think 
jacqui - Sep 02, 2010 at 09:30pm
Yeah sure the first couple images look a little similar but 80 and bells are right. There's nothing revolutionary about EITHER collection, they're both using fabrics and cuts that are on trend, not setting any fashion records. Sure White Sands may have been first, but I know I wouldn't be writing in to claim the fact that I was unoriginal first? 
why the big fuss! - Sep 03, 2010 at 12:26am
YOUR COMMENT* im a swimwear designer myself and no offences to whites sands but most of those designs are standard cuts and shapes, pastel is in this summer so of course they are going to have a more common base. to be totally honest very designer gets inspiration from a different era a old designer why should one swim designer say that she created the tye swim wear bottoms if every designer said someone copied there stuff then we wouldnt have sportsgirl or forever new. i think leah madden is just creating hype and if she should just take it as a compliment. theres no reason to get nasty very one has there place in this industry! 
Popo - Sep 03, 2010 at 01:09am
@why the big fuss!
I am surprised to hear a swimwear designer saying that it is totally OK to copy designs. If photos were taken it isn't quite the same as 'getting inspiration'.
The only 'getting nasty' I see is giant seafolly, with a team of lawyers, threatening legal action against a young up and coming designer.
From what I can see White Sands said "The most sincere form of flattery?" Which sounds like they do take it as a compliment.
I have re read this several times and it looks like to only other comment was "Is it just us, or has Seafolly taken a little to much 'inspiration' from White Sands?".  
who cares - Sep 03, 2010 at 02:41am
really? next week we'll have 2 companies fighting over a checkered shirt. spare us.  
Ashe - Sep 03, 2010 at 10:52am
All the people with negative comments towards Whitesands, listen up! If you are following a fashion blog i cannot believe you comments on the subject. Also the writer of the blog says "I mean, it's not like we're talking about plagiarized haute couture". Does it matter what it is? If some one ideas, concepts or designs are being copied or inspiring other collections shouldn't they be able to voice their opinion on a personal site to their friends or followers, just as you are with this blog.
The real issue here is-
How are upcoming designers ever supposed to make it in the industries if the big guys having enough money to copy their designs, mass produce it and get their big legal team to use big fancy statements and fight their battles.

If it happened to you with your blog and someone was reposting near word to word with a few changes how would you feel? 
Get over it - Sep 03, 2010 at 12:05pm
The collection was shown in May at RAFW and the seafolly collection was shot on Dunk island in June,
It would take more than a month for design and production to have samples done for the shoot!
 
why all the fuss - Sep 03, 2010 at 02:12pm
@ popo I AM NOT CONDONING WHAT HAS HAPPEN AT ALL! leah madden did not come up with the tye bikini concept she did not come up with the frill one piece swimwear these designs have been done time and time again its swimwear! i could understand if they copied every single design from the exact cut to the print. seafolly has been a australian swimwear company for over 35 years and by all means i know whats its like been a up and coming designer but your only as good as your last collection. no offence i adore what whitesands produce and i hope they have a longlivity in the fashion world but to me it doesnt matter what forum this was decussed in its out and whitesand is only going to benefit from this circus i just think that whitesands lea madden loves the publiscity. on the question on whether seafolly did send someone in or not the leason here is dont truste anyone. and to flossy if you can produce a colection in one month you must be just a incredible human been cause its completely impossible  
seriously - Sep 06, 2010 at 04:45pm
Hands up who actually understands the fashion industry?

What has happened here is quite simple. Two labels have looked at the same trend forecast/been informed by the same tend company.

It happens ALL the time. WGSN anyone? Purple tweed in the early noughties anyone? Gosh, do you think all those designers just sit down and get a gut feeling for 'mustard tones' and graphic details? Design comes from reaearch and these two labels have obviously been looking at the same information.

Simple, unfortunate but simple.

Maybe next time these labels should deviate further from their research and that way the similarities would disappear into their own design signature.


 
Flossy - Sep 06, 2010 at 10:37pm
@seriously
I keep seeing these posts that sound SO insider knowledge! I barely know what wgsn is, and I have worked in many different fashion based industries.
Big, mainstream brands get designs from those websites, so they don't have to design. I would mention names, but we all know those stores that have identical dresses, bikinis or whatever, season after season.
It is the real design innovators like whitesands that people look to for designs.
Forecast companies watch the catwaks, and put it into nice little cash and carry packages for mainstream brands, so they don't have to think for themselves.
Looks like Seafolly has just tried to skip a step this time.
 
86/21 - Sep 06, 2010 at 04:46pm
I think "why all the fuss" should go back to school and learn how to spell before posting more feedback on this forum. Please refer to online dictionary for words used such as descussed, publiscity, human been, colection, longlivity and truste. 
CoreyCMathews - Sep 07, 2010 at 08:23pm
It does look the same, both swimwears are similar but I don't think this is enough proof. 
Helen N - Sep 09, 2010 at 11:19pm
Perhaps a little feedback from someone who is an actual stockist / buyer may be appropriate rather than one sided comments from people in PR companies and those that work for Whitesands.
Both Whitesands & Seafolly have beautiful, innovative and original designs. They are two great Australian swimwear companies with one major difference - One is big (in fact, the biggest) and one is little. I have seen Seafolly work very hard over many years to build up their amazing brand with great marketing campaigns, forward thinking catalogues, a great business structure and an amazing designer. On many occasions we have seen ranges come out Seafolly that are ahead of their time and that you see reproduced by other companies in following years. I am so disappointed to see the Whitesands designer who is obviously highly talented involved in a marketing ploy that is in such poor taste. The best way to grow your business respectfully and ethically is by working hard on it rather than just trying to take down those bigger than you.
Oh, and did I mention that we saw and placed our orders for these Seafolly designs in March 2010, a whole 2 months before the alleged RAFW scandal! Those making allegations really should get their facts right. HN.
 
Beachbum - Sep 10, 2010 at 11:04am
finally someone has said it! Whitesands your cheap advertising campaign might now just end up costing you a lot of money.... very tacky for such a classy brand.shame. Doesn't whitesands also remind you a little of other brands in the market at the moment??? I can think of about 5 others that if I photoshopped them together and chose the right photos could look pretty darm similar! 

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